Warning: Animal liberationists, avert your eyes. The following recollection of events may disturb some (?most) readers.
Let me begin by saying that it was with *great* hesitation and trepidation that I attended my first and last cockfight, last night in Otovalo, Ecuador.
Having spent all day (and quite a bit of money) at the famous Otovalo market, I consulted the 'Entertainment' section of Lonely Planet for some suggestions on how to occupy my Saturday night. The options were thin, to say the least - drinking and dancing (of which I´m sure there´s more to come on this trip) or....the weekly cockfight. I have since read elsewhere in the Ecuador chapter, that cockfighting is something of a national sport, and "a town is not a town without a cockfighting ring." I´m not really sure if that insight adds weight to my argument for attending or not. Afterall, my primary motivation was burning curiousity - does this really still happen?? I thought it went out with backyard boxing tournaments... But the curiousity was heavily counterbalanced by the idea that roosters fighting surely can´t be a kind and gentle excercise. Aaaah.....the dilemma!
The starting time was a bit vague...the book said 7pm, but some guys I overheard speaking at the market said 8pm. In my state of indecision about the ethics of attending such an event, I let fate takes its course.... I did some chores and eventually made my way to the ring somewhere between 7 and 8 (additional challenge being my current lack of watch - broke two days ago).
The ring was located in...let´s just say....the part of town where you´d expect a cockfighting ring to be located. As I was walking there, I was wondering if another robbery was on the cards, but curiousity being what it is, spurred me on, down the dark street by the now-closed undercover market. When I reached what I understood to be the location (a building! In my naivity I had thought it was an outdoor under-lights affair), I discovered a dozen or so seedy looking blokes milling around, and felt acutely aware of my lack of a Y chromosome... In my dodgy Spanish I managed to deduce that starting time (?peck-off) was at 8pm. Right, said I. And legged it out of there. Made it to a better-lit street, checked the phone for the time...7 mins to go... What to do...? It looked pretty dodgy... But....I´m only here once. And cockfighting! I have to see it, so I can share the experience - with chicken lovers *and* sports nuts. But $4! The book said 50c! A four dollar 'donation' to the sport is bordering on active support....!?
A slow walk around the block in search of dinner (unsuccessful), and some time to ponder my course. Decided to go. Imagined myself regretting it if I didn´t. So back I went, paid my US$4 for the pleasure of a General Admission seat, and waited for the show to begin. (Second class was $7, and ringside $15! A lot of money, when you consider one can eat a three course lunch for $2 in these parts....)
The pictures speak a thousand words, but suffice to say, the experience was jaw-dropping. And somewhat surreal. I´ve included some explanations with pics, to help fill in the gaps.
Long live the rooster. In a wide open space, with a warm barn to sleep in at night.... :)
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